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Hi. I'm John Robey and I have been a professional photographer for about 25 years. During that time I have worked with major accounts and many models. I have helped launch more than a few careers, and have watched the modeling industry change in ways I don't like.
Modeling is a huge industry - with as many "experts" as there are people to ask.
Many people are knowledgeable in their area (geographic or specialty) but no single person can be an expert on the entire industry. It is too big and merges into other areas, such as acting. The industry like an iceberg, reveals only the tip to the general public. What we refer to as "modeling" has split into two industries.
One part, the real industry, is not much changed. It is bigger - adding new markets like TV - Music Video and Internet sites. In this part, if you have the looks, get the contacts and work hard, you can succeed at modeling.
Part two is new, and ominous - this is an industry that earns the bulk of it's money from preying on the dreams of those who would be models. Many people dream of modeling - they are attracted by the prospect of easy money or the glamorous lifestyle. Most of those who dream of modeling will not -
Modeling is unique - in that...
No amount of "hard work" will overcome no potential.
and the same as many things in that...
No amount of "potential" can overcome no work...as in lazy.
There are many realities that prevent people from becoming models. Most of us do not really have any idea what we look like.
Often, "want to be models" come to me from situations where all they get are unrealistic compliments from people not qualified or motivated to judge. Naturally there are certain basic height, age and weight guidelines, many people ignore these. If you are ignoring them.....Wait a minute...
I AM NOT SAYING YOU CAN'T WORK BUT I AM SAYING
your look defines your market. To disregard this reality is just plain stupid.
Super Models always (99.99999999%) conform to height, age and weight requirements. Those of you that are younger then 18 and over 5'10" may have a chance to be a super model. For men - there are also guidelines for certain areas of success.
However, many others who do not fit these guidelines, can still model, make money and enjoy the experience! Work in areas of your strengths. For example: shorter women, if they have great bodies often do swimwear, lingerie, glamour very well. Just pretty girls or good looking men well below the height required for mainstream modeling can do well working conventions, trade shows and local companies. If you don't have the height required, change your approach, do not ignore the facts, if personality is a high asset you can steer more toward acting and areas that have less stringent requirements for height, etc.
There are specialty models (hands- legs or other body parts), plus size models, models selected for specific themes or looks (look like a typical mother of 5 for example).
Modeling is a vast arena - this is something which many people overlook.
During the past few years, many women, entering modeling have said they would like to be, (or even expected to be) on the cover of Cosmo, Sports Illustrated Swimwear Issue or Playmate of the month. Just for the sake of reality, those 3 places use roughly 36 girls a year, and in Florida ALONE more than 36 people a year become millionaires through the lottery.
The reality is, the odds of you becoming a "SUPER MODEL"
are slimmer then the odds of winning the lottery.
I read the average working model earns about $27,000 per year if you exclude part timers. Including part time, it drops to about $4,700. We all know the SUPER models, but we don't know who provides the neck for the $40,000 diamond necklace advertisement. These are specialty models and some do quite well.
You will meet an endless procession of people who will tell you what you want to hear....these people are salesmen. They are selling something to you, they are exploiting your dreams. Modeling can be a career and pay fairly well, or it can be a diversion, boost your ego and make you extra money once in a while.
Beware that what impresses your friends, does not impress the real industry.
My suggestion is that you let your career define itself, as it develops. If you try to buy a career in modeling, you will always pay more than you earn.
Modeling is about image, and image requires presentation; this means photography. You need something more than snapshots, but you do not need to spend hundreds of dollars. Quality photography can be found, often for free. This is a bit easier for women than men and children, but not impossible for any group.
Free photography, is not usually industry standard, not always good, but is at times excellent. It at least gives you something to show. More important, it gets you accustomed to the unblinking eye of the lens as it stares at you. You become more at ease, and a better subject.
I suggest contacting local photography clubs and community colleges. Both are safe as there are groups of people. Colleges have the edge in having often excellent studio facilities, and students can print their own work for low cost.
There are often local jobs you can do, they won't pay much, but any money will help defray your expenses. At local events, you can usually meet contacts that will help you along. Many local or first jobs may not be in front of the camera jobs, but they are public contact and exposure.
If your area has an independent or small TV station, check with them. Local photographers sometimes need models for their clients projects. Local merchants can often use a good look for PR. During this entire time, you gain contacts, accumulate photos and gain experience.
When you have accumulated enough good photo's it is time to do a composite.
I think for many the best bet is to go directly to a company that specializes in comps. If you go through an agency or photographer, they almost always mark up the cost. If you go to a local print shop, more than likely you will get a poor quality job. As a photographer, I had to buy a printing company to get what I wanted... The modeling forums lists several composite companies... ASK!
When you can afford it, and after you have some good number of free hours in front of the camera, with several photographers... it might be an excellent idea to hire a professional photographer. Hopefully you will already have made a few dollars doing some local modeling. Many people waste their time and money by hiring the professional while they are still totally new and uncomfortable in front of the camera. You may not feel uncomfortable but, there is something that changes with experience, and EXPERIENCE SHOWS TO PROS!
When you have overcome that lack of experience... if you still want to be a model... then it will be worth checking out a professional photographer. Professionals just work differently, not always better, but different. It is with a professional that you may get your first exposure to make up artist, hair stylist,and anything approaching a photo stylist or Art Director.
With a professional, you should see the most in facilities and support. This is partly because they are controlled by different gods i.e. CLIENTS, COMPETITION, TIME, PROFIT and partly because they will probably spend more money on your shoot, because it is your money.
Work from a professional may (but not always) be better. However, to survive they must work to an industry standard. Look at their work and find someone you like. Just look.....don't talk... don't listen... just look.
Photography must be judged by the eyes and soul!
Meaning no disrespect, I would advise WHEN YOU ARE PAYING that you avoid places like Glamour Shots, and the photographers "who do it all", as in portraits, weddings, passports, etc,etc who also do models.
It is not that these people may not do fine work, it is simply that they are not as connected to the working modeling industry as someone who specializes in and works with it everyday. There are photographers who specialize in models, but also do other things to pay the rent.
Remember professional, is like freelance, only a term. I know pro's retired with 30 years experience and credits I'd die for, who now call their work a hobby. I know guys who have owned a camera 3 weeks and have cards saying professional. Best advice ask around, look around, do your homework.
Great models don't start with great photos, they just start.
A bad model can spend their weight in gold on photography
and will still be a lousy model.
You can at this point work on a portfolio. I suggest you pick the best of all your photo's and get a moderate size print. Twelve great photos are better than 50 mediocre ones... in fact they are better than 49 great photos and 1 bad one. A portfolio is not a photo album, it is eventually a representation of past work. My suggestion is at the beginning, keep an album for yourself and your friends to fondle, and migrate a few prints in and out of it to the portfolio collection, this way you can slant or bias it to each market you are going to approach.
FACT of life, professionals don't have a great deal of chit chat time,
and be wary of anyone who spends too much time with you.
I can tell from looking at a model and 8 prints what their potential is for my needs, I do not care beyond that point.... it is "thank you for coming and ask the next to come in as you leave". Done deal!
Another thing from my experience, you should never have to sexually interact with anyone to get a job, a part or other. If you meet someone you like who is in the industry and go out with them, that's fine, after all my wife is a model. I didn't promise her work so she'd marry me. Basically don't confuse night moves with career moves, they may overlap, but do not interchange.
ON THIS TOPIC, USE CAUTION WHEN MEETING PHOTOGRAPHERS OR OTHERS UNKNOWN TO YOU, BE SURE TO TAKE A FRIEND ALONG AND LET PEOPLE KNOW WHERE YOU WILL BE. DO NOT BE AFRAID TO WALK OUT OF A SITUATION IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE OR NERVOUS ABOUT SOMEONE'S BEHAVIOR. DO ONLY WHAT YOU ARE COMFORTABLE DOING!
Once you have some good photo's in hand, it is time to hit the streets, go see any agency or photographer who will see you. Leave a couple of photo's. It would be great to have a composite... but the real truth is "If you have great potential, someone is going to notice and want to use you to make them money"... That is just how it is. Go slow, you can't buy your way in, it takes patience, networking, hard work and luck.
Modeling is about rejection, so learn to deal with it, if you aren't talking to the "yes" people who are after your money, then you will deal 99.9% of the time with the NO people. You will be rejected more times than you can count. You will be thinking you are a god or a goddess, but then you get to go to a "go see" or casting call where there are 99 other gods or goddesses. It can be quite sobering, to be 5'9" and the shortest girl in a room!
There are a number of sites on the internet that will post models for free, check them out, use them... but remember most of the real industry is still doing things the old way and will for a while.
What is mainly on the net now are hundreds of small online listings, each too small to really help you or a potential client. Some of these listings have thousands of lookers per day, but the problem is most of the lookers are just people, not agents, photographers or agencies. This will change in time, and net listing is the wave of tomorrow. Even now it might find you work, can't hurt, is a good way to get contacts for free photo's and possibly a date (kidding... CAUTION ADVISED.)
Beware of the one stop career: any place that wants to be your agency, do your photography (or control who does it), do your comps and give you classes. Check them out. It is usually best to let one place do one thing, that way there is no conflict. Use caution before signing any exclusive agreement, more agencies may mean more work.
Don't be afraid to write AGENCIES, send a few photo's and even ask "DO I HAVE ANY POTENTIAL." Any real agency will give you an opinion, perhaps suggesting an alternative market for your look.
When I say agencies, don't just try the BIG NAMES, try respectable local agencies and don't be afraid to check them out with The BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU. If they are an online service, try checking with NetCheck. Do not neglect casting directors/casting agents. They often book hundreds of models and other talent for TV commercials, movies and print work. Casting directors (they will hate me for this) are often smaller operations, where you can call them once in a while and say "hey use me."
Beware of anyone offering big promises that require anything that costs LOTS. In the beginning you may need to invest some time and some money, but invest - do not try to buy the MAGIC CAREER
Get started and then follow first rule of modeling... get paid, don't pay! Be doubly warned because really great potential paves its own road and if you really have it at the super model level, people should be tripping over each other to help you for FREE!
Remember I offered to get you started for less, and this will, but it is not promised to get you all the way there for free!
JLR
Updated 1/98
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