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Re: Certainly

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Posted by: Jim H. (216.78.53.10) on August 29, 2002 at 06:24:43

In Reply to: Havin Trouble posted by Rob on August 28, 2002 at 00:51:17:

> I set the exposure comp at -2/3.

Why did you do that?

Print film speeds, in general, are already overrated. So you want to
use +2/3 exposure compensation. Underexposing print film will
produce a thin negative and prints like you describe.

But, rather than overexposing with exposure compensation, adjust
the ASA instead -- and then leave the exposure compensation at
zero unless you have reason to add additional exposure (backlit
subject, very reflective subject such as sand, snow, or white buildings,
etc.). It is rare to need negative exposure compensation; especially
for print films. Some slide films can be underexposed a small amount
for better color saturation, but in such cases it should be done by
adjusting the ASA (for example, tell the camera you have ASA 64
when you are using ASA 50 film). The only slide films I have seen
photographers overexpose a little is the Fuji 50 speed films (Velvia
and I believe RDP-50).

For print films, try exposing:

400 speed at 250
200 speed at 120
160 speed at 120 (The Portra films, for example)
100 speed at 80

Next, get out of the sun. What Kodak told your grandparents, back
in the 1950's, about taking pictures is no longer good advice. Direct
sun creates too much contrast. Even if the film is able to handle the
contrast range, the model, and the scene, can't.

Next, get a Kodak Gray Card and meter off the gray card until you
have a good feel for exposure. Or, else shell out a couple hundred
dollars for an incident light meter.

And, last, order and read carefully the book, "Understanding Exposure"
by Bryan Peterson, Amphoto, ISBN 0-8174-3712-6 ($22.50) for the
paperback version (8x11 inches, 144 pages). See:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0817437126/qid=1030615544/sr=2-1/ref=
sr_2_1/103-8484821-2451042#product-details

If I recall correctly, nowhere in the book is an incident light meter used.
All exposure determination was done with the in-camera meter.

Jim H.

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Comments: : > I set the exposure comp at -2/3. : Why did you do that? : Print film speeds, in general, are already overrated. So you want to : use +2/3 exposure compensation. Underexposing print film will : produce a thin negative and prints like you describe. : But, rather than overexposing with exposure compensation, adjust : the ASA instead -- and then leave the exposure compensation at : zero unless you have reason to add additional exposure (backlit : subject, very reflective subject such as sand, snow, or white buildings, : etc.). It is rare to need negative exposure compensation; especially : for print films. Some slide films can be underexposed a small amount : for better color saturation, but in such cases it should be done by : adjusting the ASA (for example, tell the camera you have ASA 64 : when you are using ASA 50 film). The only slide films I have seen : photographers overexpose a little is the Fuji 50 speed films (Velvia : and I believe RDP-50). : For print films, try exposing: : 400 speed at 250 : 200 speed at 120 : 160 speed at 120 (The Portra films, for example) : 100 speed at 80 : Next, get out of the sun. What Kodak told your grandparents, back : in the 1950's, about taking pictures is no longer good advice. Direct : sun creates too much contrast. Even if the film is able to handle the : contrast range, the model, and the scene, can't. : Next, get a Kodak Gray Card and meter off the gray card until you : have a good feel for exposure. Or, else shell out a couple hundred : dollars for an incident light meter. : And, last, order and read carefully the book, "Understanding Exposure" : by Bryan Peterson, Amphoto, ISBN 0-8174-3712-6 ($22.50) for the : paperback version (8x11 inches, 144 pages). See: : http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0817437126/qid=1030615544/sr=2-1/ref= : sr_2_1/103-8484821-2451042#product-details : If I recall correctly, nowhere in the book is an incident light meter used. : All exposure determination was done with the in-camera meter. : Jim H.

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